Sometimes you book a hotel and think: meh. And sometimes you discover a town and think: YES! This is it. Mazara del Vallo was our home base during a week in Sicily. We stayed at the Hopps Hotel (all-inclusive), and let’s put it this way… it was okay. Clean, perfectly fine, but not somewhere I’d be rushing back to anytime soon. Mazara del Vallo, on the other hand? That definitely deserves a spot on your Sicily itinerary.
It’s one of those places where you head out in the morning thinking, “We’ll just go for a quick walk,” and three hours later you’re still happily lost in the cutest little streets.
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Getting Lost in the Old Town
The old town of Mazara del Vallo is absolutely beautiful. Narrow streets, colorful tiles, laundry cheerfully fluttering above your head – you know the picture. At times it almost feels North African, which isn’t surprising. The city has strong Arab influences, particularly noticeable in the Kasbah district.
My tip: turn off Google Maps and just wander. The center isn’t very big, so you can’t really go too far wrong. (And if you do, you can always turn Google Maps back on again!) Along the way, you’ll naturally come across little cafés where you can stop for an espresso or – even better – an ice cream with brioche for breakfast. Because yes, that’s totally normal here.
Just How Many Churches Are There?
Mazara del Vallo officially has more than 25 churches scattered throughout the town and surrounding area. That’s quite a lot for a relatively small place!
The best-known is the Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore on Piazza della Repubblica, but honestly? I loved the smaller churches tucked away between houses even more. They’re part of what makes wandering around Mazara del Vallo so much fun.
Ignazio’s Miniature Churches
In a small, unassuming space, you’ll find the remarkable collection created by Ignazio (I think that was his name, but I’m not entirely sure anymore). He has handmade miniature versions of all the churches in Mazara del Vallo and the surrounding area. And believe me, there are quite a few.
It’s one of those places you walk into out of curiosity and then suddenly realize you’ve spent half an hour looking at all the tiny details. Everything is there: the facades, towers, little windows.
I love seeing someone who is so passionate about what they do. Even though I personally couldn’t care less about churches.
Admission is free, and when it’s open there’s a sign outside. You can hardly miss it while wandering through town.
An Ice Cream Sandwich, Sicilian Style
Okay. We need to talk about ice cream in a bun.
In Sicily, a brioche con gelato is completely normal. You take a sweet brioche bun, slice it open and fill it with gelato.
We tried one at Diadema in Mazara del Vallo. The gelato? Fantastic. Seriously creamy and packed with flavor. That wasn’t the problem.
But me? I still prefer my ice cream in a cup. With a spoon. Without bread around it.
That said, you absolutely should try it. It’s part of the Sicilian experience, and who knows? You might love it.
One warning though: it gets messy. The gelato melts quickly, so eat it while sitting at a table. Otherwise, you’ll be covered in melting ice cream before you know it.
Eating at Antica Sicilia
As a culinary travel blog, I obviously can’t write about Mazara del Vallo without sharing a good place to eat. We had dinner at Antica Sicilia, and it turned out to be a great choice.
This is where I tried busiata garibaldi. Busiata is a typical Sicilian pasta with a twisted shape that’s perfect for holding onto sauce. The version we had was delicious, although I honestly can’t remember exactly what was in it anymore.
Our appetizer was a mixture of caponata (another regional specialty), panelle (chickpea flour fritters), cheese and pomodori. Obviously accompanied by a nice glass of Sicilian wine.
Mazara del Vallo is also a fantastic destination for seafood lovers. The town is famous for its shrimp, particularly the renowned Gambero Rosso di Mazara, or Mazara red prawns. If you see them on the menu, you should probably order them. Did we? No. Something about not having enough room left in our stomachs.
Practical Information
Mazara del Vallo is located on the west coast of Sicily, about an hour to an hour and a half by car from Palermo. It’s a great base if you also want to visit places like Trapani, Marsala, the salt pans of Mozia (which we unfortunately missed because of severe weather!) or Erice.
- Old town: compact and easy to explore on foot
- Best time to visit: the town really comes alive in the evening
- Parking: easier just outside the center than right in the middle of town
- Gelato: Diadema
- Dinner: Antica Sicilia
- Hotel: Hopps Hotel is perfectly fine if you’re looking for an all-inclusive option, but don’t expect luxury or culinary masterpieces
FAQ About Mazara del Vallo
Less so than many other places in Sicily. It still feels authentic and very local.
One full day is enough to explore the town itself. However, if you’re using Mazara del Vallo as a base for exploring western Sicily, it’s a great place to stay for several days.
Fresh seafood, red prawns (Gambero Rosso), busiata pasta and, of course, brioche con gelato.
Yes. Sicilians don’t think twice about it. Personally, I’ll stick with my cappuccino and croissant. I still don’t entirely understand the appeal of putting ice cream in a bun, but hey, to each their own.
Final Thoughts
Mazara del Vallo really surprised me. The hotel might have been a little underwhelming, but the town more than made up for it. It’s the kind of place where you slow down, eat a lot and simply enjoy Sicilian life.
And ultimately, isn’t that exactly why you go to Sicily?
Funny side note: a friend of mine had stayed at the Hopps Hotel a year before we did. She had seen all kinds of places around Sicily but hadn’t actually gone into Mazara del Vallo at all. Such a shame!
So whatever you do, don’t make that mistake. Get out of the hotel and explore Mazara del Vallo. It’s absolutely worth it.
