Before we went, I’d heard people say, “Palermo? Meh, not necessarily worth it.” But I’ve always thought you can’t really decide something like that until you’ve experienced it for yourself.
We were staying in Mazara del Vallo and decided to take a day trip to Palermo. We kept things easy and booked an excursion with transportation included. At 7:15 a.m., we were already sitting sleepily on the bus, with a two-hour drive ahead of us and dreams of cappuccino running through my head.
And believe me: it turned out to be a wonderful day. (want more about Sicily? Check the post about Erice as well.)
Table of contents
Pasticceria Cappello
When you think of Palermo, you think of cannoli. And Pasticceria Cappello is known as one of the best pastry shops in the city, so don’t be surprised if it’s busy!
Obviously, we ordered a cannolo. A crispy shell, creamy ricotta, and just the right amount of sweetness. But… the cassata completely stole my heart. That soft, slightly sweet ricotta with candied fruit and a layer of marzipan. Seriously. Give me cassata for breakfast any day. With a cappuccino, of course. We are in Italy, after all.
Tip: In Sicily, ricotta is often made from sheep’s milk, which makes it richer and creamier than the ricotta you may be used to. And yes, you can definitely taste the difference. Another tip: share the pastries with your travel companion. That way, you get to try more!
Palermo Cathedral
After that, we walked to the impressive Cattedrale di Palermo, or Palermo Cathedral.
What a building! It’s a fascinating mix of Arab, Norman, and Gothic influences. Very typically Sicilian.
We bought the €18 all-inclusive ticket (September 2025), which gives you access to everything. There are quite a few different ticket options, which honestly makes it a little confusing. With the all-inclusive ticket, you can visit the crypt as well as the rooftop.
And the rooftop is definitely worth it. The views across the city are gorgeous. It was already quite busy when we visited, though, and this wasn’t even high season. I seriously wonder what it’s like in July or August. Probably a lot of elbowing your way through the crowds.
But the view more than makes up for it. From above, Palermo is a maze of rooftops and domes, with mountains rising in the distance. The crypt is interesting to see as well, although you probably won’t spend very long there.
Street Food at Ballarò Market
Next, we walked to the lively Mercato di Ballarò. If you know me even a little, you’ll know how much I love visiting markets when I’m traveling, and Ballarò was another fantastic place to wander around.
Vendors shouting to attract customers, colorful market stalls, and the smell of fried food everywhere. The hardest part is deciding what to eat!
We went for arancini and chose one filled with ragù and another with spinach. Both were delicious! Obviously, we needed an Aperol Spritz to go with them. Served in a plastic cup, but hey, that just makes it feel even more local!
Just pay attention to what you order. Offal is a local delicacy in Palermo. Think pane con la milza, a sandwich filled with spleen. Very local. Very authentic. But perhaps not quite what you’re expecting at noon when you just want to “grab something quick.”
Food fact: Sicily is famous for its street food, and Palermo is often referred to as Italy’s street food capital. You can eat better on the streets here than you can in many restaurants.
Scaffolding and Surprises
We walked past several squares, including Piazza San Domenico, but unfortunately, there was quite a bit of scaffolding here and there. That’s always a little disappointing when you’re visiting a city.
Still, it doesn’t take much away from Palermo’s charm. Palermo is raw. Lively. Not perfectly polished. And maybe that’s exactly what makes it so much fun.
Severe Weather on the Way Back
On the drive back to Mazara del Vallo, we ended up in some seriously bad weather. One of those intense Sicilian downpours that makes you wonder if the world is about to end. Unfortunately, it immediately caused quite a few accidents on the roads as well.
We realized how incredibly lucky we had been with the weather during our day in Palermo. And that became even more obvious the following day, when the really severe weather hit.
Practical Information for a Day Trip to Palermo
Getting there:
From Mazara del Vallo, it takes roughly 1.5 hours to drive to Palermo, depending on traffic. An organized day trip makes transportation easy, but you can also drive yourself or take the train. One advantage of traveling by train or bus is that you don’t have to worry about parking. Because I can only imagine that parking in Palermo can be… interesting.
Best time to visit:
Popular attractions can already get busy outside the high season. If you visit in July or August, expect plenty of tourists as well as high temperatures. For both cooler weather and fewer crowds, spring and fall are better choices.
What shouldn’t you miss?
- Cannoli and cassata at Pasticceria Cappello
- The rooftop of Palermo Cathedral
- Street food at Ballarò Market
But one of the best things to do is simply take your time wandering around the city. There is plenty to see – and plenty to eat!
Palermo Day Trip FAQ
Definitely, if you want to get a first impression of the city. If you want to visit museums and enjoy a long, leisurely lunch, you can easily spend more time here. Personally, I would have loved an extra day in Palermo.
We felt perfectly comfortable walking around the city center during the day. As in any city, keep an eye on your belongings and use common sense.
Cannoli, cassata, arancini, and, if you’re feeling adventurous, pane con la milza.
Yes, definitely. The market is fun and lively, but keep in mind that it can get crowded and hot, especially during the summer months.
